Twisted: The Tangled History of Black Hair Culture x Emma Dabiri

272 pages.

First published in 2019.

Finished reading on 10 Jul 2020.

Genre: Non-fiction.

From Guardian contributor BBC race correspondent Emma Dabiri comes an essay collection exploring the ways in which black hair has been appropriated and stigmatized throughout history, with ruminations on body politics, race, pop culture, and Dabiri’s own journey to loving her hair.

Emma Dabiri can tell you the first time she chemically straightened her hair. She can describe the smell, the atmosphere of the salon, and her mix of emotions when she saw her normally kinky tresses fall down her shoulders. For as long as Emma can remember, her hair has been a source of insecurity, shame, and—from strangers and family alike—discrimination. And she is not alone.

Despite increasingly liberal world views, black hair continues to be erased, appropriated, and stigmatized to the point of taboo. Through her personal and historical journey, Dabiri gleans insights into the way racism is coded in society’s perception of black hair—and how it is often used as an avenue for discrimination. Dabiri takes us from pre-colonial Africa, through the Harlem Renaissance, and into today’s Natural Hair Movement, exploring everything from women’s solidarity and friendship, to the criminalization of dreadlocks, to the dubious provenance of Kim Kardashian’s braids.

Through the lens of hair texture, Dabiri leads us on a historical and cultural investigation of the global history of racism—and her own personal journey of self-love and finally, acceptance.

🗣️ Black Hair Is Political.

Ok, let’s go:

‘Most “black” women are brown! … We have to remind ourselves that “black” is not merely a descriptive term for skin color; rather, it is a historically loaded ideology.’

I have really strong feelings on the subject, being a black woman, with hair. So, this book was right up my alley. This is not going to be a quick review; you’re welcome to skip to the end, and I’ll have no beef with you, I promise.

Snippets:

Wot?!
Uh-hmm. We know all about this system, don’t we.
About Blue Ivy?! Clearly, humans are completely crazy, and Jesus must come back.
This is culturally true in Zimbabwe as well, and it’s something I heard, growing up.
My own memories here, on Twitter
I really nearly cried, reading this. So familiar!
Can you feel the tips of your ears sizzle? We can thank François Marcel Grateau (in 1872) for that, apparently.
Painful.
How would you not enjoy this book? 😂
Remember what Trevor Noah said about the black woman’s hair? 👀👀
Fascinating things about black men’s hair
💔
💔

Here’s a very cool, related tweet:

Ok, that’s my review, really 😂

TL;DR I found this book illuminating and really funny in places. I wish the author had written more about southern Africa (she focused on West Africa mostly, where Africa was mentioned); so, I will be looking out for the history of the hair of the people of the South.

Rated: 9/10. Very much worth picking up.

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